Extend Christmas!
Celebrate 12th night

During the Middle Ages Christmas wasn't just one day, it was a whole season that began on Christmas day and ended 12 days later. January 6 th became known as 12 th Night. At the council of Tours in 567 the Church declared 12 th Night the feast of the Epiphany, but the celebration goes back as far as the Basilidian heretics from the 2nd century.

Many food traditions are associated with this holiday. In Cornwall it was considered lucky to eat blackbird pie on 12 th Night. Throughout Europe wassailer's would make their rounds from house to house having their cups filled with hot spiced cider, ale, or syllabub. And nobles of every country would throw grand feasts, where elaborately decorated 12 th night pies were served and when cut open revealed flocks of live birds, frogs or even a small person! "Now wasn't that a dainty dish to set before the King!"

The most prevalent 12 th night food tradition is the choosing of the King, sometimes called the King of fools or the King of the bean, with a 12 th Night cake. A small bean is baked into a cake and the person who gets the piece containing the bean rules as King for a day. Some say the bean represents the baby Jesus, others suggest it is included because it was a sacred vegetable of the ancients.

The tradition of choosing a King who presides over festivals dates back to the Roman celebration of Saturnalia.

The cake, Gateaux des Rois or Galette de Rois (Kings Cake), originated at the French monastery of Mont-St-Michel in the 13 th century where a monk was chosen, by means of the bean, to sit on a special throne. The "Bean King" is also mentioned in English royal accounts as early as the reign of Edward the Second, 1307-1327. The tradition was firmly entrenched by the 17 th century when Robert Herrick (1591-1674) wrote;

"Now, now the mirth comes
with the cake full of plums,
Where bean's the king of the sport here;"

In modern France the 12 th Night cake still has its place. In the north it is usually made of puff pastry and frangipane, a sweet pastry cream, and glazed with egg yolks. In the south it is a brioche dough, shaped into a crown, and flavored with candied fruit and brandy.

The following recipe follows the southern tradition which is more like a bread than a cake. Don't forget to put the bean in and warn your guests!

12th Night Cake
1/4 cup brandy
1/2 cup candied orange peel
1/4 cup flour
2 packages dry yeast
4 tablespoons warm water
1 tablespoon sugar
2 1/4 cups flour
3 eggs
1 stick butter
1 bean

Note: eggs and butter must be at room temperature.

In a small bowl combine brandy and orange peel. Set aside.
In a large bowl combine warm water, yeast, sugar and a 1/4 cup flour. Cover and set aside in a warm spot.

In another large bowl place 2 1/4 cups flour. Create a well in the center. Crack the eggs into the well and with a fork beat them, combining a little of the flour as you beat. Continue until you have a stiff dough. Now work the butter into the dough, a little at a time kneading thoroughly. Add more flour if the dough gets to soft. Once all the butter is worked in add the brandy, orange peel and yeast sponge. Knead on a floured board until all are combined adding more flour as necessary. Place dough in a warm spot and let rise until doubled.

Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees.

Once the dough has doubled punch it down and place it onto a baking sheet. Shape into a crown or a ring. Let rise until doubled in size. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown.

To serve 12th night cake divide it into as many pieces as there are people (or plus one piece, the extra for the first beggar or poor person who comes to the door). The youngest member of the family distributes the pieces. Whoever gets the bean is King!

Food is life. May the plenty that graces your table truly be a vast repast.

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